Many new to RVing find it a bit disconcerting that many RV appliances run on LP gas. Maybe somewhere in the past a distant relative had a bad experience, and they get goose-flesh every time they think about lighting the stove. Properly handled, LP has is a safe servant, it's a matter of applying a lot of common sense, and taking the time for safety. RVs are fairly well designed with safety in mind. But that built-in safety still requires attention on our part, and no area probably requires more attention than the safe use of propane (LP) gas. Here are a few pointers that can help keep you and your loved ones safe.
LP "Tank" Safety
Let's start outside, at the LP container. For motorhome users, your LP tank is "ASME" certified. Yours will need little attention, as most are tucked away in a compartment and take little in the way of damage. For the rest of us, trailer and camper users, taking care of our container is a bit different. Our "tanks" are DOT certified, and follow a different set of rules. Since ours generally come out of the rig to be refilled, they often take a few hits.
Newer DOT tanks come equipped with an OPD valve, or "overfill protection device." The theory here is that a little device on the valve will prevent the container from being filled more than 80% full, allowing for vapor expansion in the tank. We say theory, because many LP dealers tell us that it doesn't always work that way. Hence, whenever your LP dealer refills your bottle he should open a small "20% valve" which will spit forth liquid LP when the tank has reached its safe filling point. A safe fill means STOP filling at that point. Overfilled LP tanks are risky.
Older "POL" fitting needs wrench to attach
DOT tanks are initially certified for 12 years from date of manufacture. After those years, they should be inspected and recertified, usually for 5-year intervals. Most LP dealers can do the inspection and "recert," and it doesn't cost a lot of money--some even do it for free. In many localities, if your tank is "out of date," a legitimate dealer won't refill you.
Pay attention to tank position when transporting it or having it filled. If your tank sits vertically in use, it should be transported and filled in that position. If it's a horizontal tank, common in truck campers, then transport and fill only horizontally. That can be a problem with rookie LP filling station attendants--they think all tanks should be filled vertically, and you may need to educate them--in strong terms. OPD tanks don't need to have a plug screwed into the valve mouth while transporting, but putting the dust cap on isn't a bad idea.
Since our original posting, a sharp-eyed reader by the name of Ben wrote in: "For what it's worth, our horizontal LP tanks explictly say that, while the tanks should be transported horizontally, they should be in the vertical position while being filled." Ben's comments are worth noting. Newer horizontal tanks are filled as he mentions; older tanks need to be filled horizontally. Look at your tank for a sticker indicating which way to fill, and always follow it.
When you get your tank home and go to hook it back into the LP system you'll may find a "POL" style fitting on the end of your rig's "pigtail." What's a pigtail? This is the little hose the connects to your LP container. You'll know if you have a POL fitting because it will require 7/8" wrench to connect. This is a LEFT hand thread fitting that screws into the tank valve. Newer fittings, called "Acme fittings" are right handed threaded that screw on OVER the tank valve, and is done by hand. The new OPD valves will accept either fitting. When tightening a POL fitting, take care not to over tighten, use your wrench yes, but don't go beyond "just snug." There's an internal rubber seal in the mouth of the valve which over tightening will tear up and eventually cause a leak. In some valves these can be replaced, but in others, a leak will require a whole new OPD valve.
New "Acme" fitting hand threads onto valve
And a note on those Acme fittings: Reports from some RV dealers indicate that the Acme fittings may wear out quicker than the old POL fittings. It may be RVers are just over-torquing them, so go gentle. We know one dealer won't sell the Acme pigtails, but instead offers the old-style POL fitting equipped with a "hand wheel" that allows you to hook up without a wrench. He swears it's a great improvement over Acme.
After reinstalling a tank, some RVers "double check" their install by using a shot of LP leak detector on the fitting to ensure snugness. You can make up your own leak detector with ordinary liquid dishwashing soap, diluted with tap water. Brush or spill it on the fitting. If you see bubbles, you've got a leak. Please don't subscribe to the "light a match" to find a leak school of thought. Sure there are those who have "gotten away with it," but there are others who aren't here to tell us about it.
This LP cylinder needs a coat of paint
If your tank is exposed to the elements, say on a travel trailer and mounted close to the hitch, your tanks may take plenty of "hits," from flying rocks and other road debris. Even tanks tucked away in a compartment can get "dinged up." Paint scratches can invite corrosion, and that in turn, can weaken the integrity of the tank wall. If your tank looks like it's been "through the war," gently sand it and give it a coat or two of light, reflective paint.
A final note on "propane" gas. While most "propane" is mostly propane, other gases may be included, including butane. In some localities, dealers may sell propane with a higher content of butane. This is particularly true in Mexico, where the butane content can be very high. The gases are somewhat similar and will work in your appliances without modification. However, in areas where the weather goes below freezing, butane is NOT a good choice for use, as it will refuse to vaporize, leaving you without a fuel source. If you're traveling in warmer climes where freezing rarely occurs and you fuel up, ask the dealer what kind of gas you're getting. If you're staying in the warmer areas, butane is fine, but if you plan on going where the cold weather is, skip the butane.
Drive Time
On the top of controversial RV topics is that of driving with LP tank valves open. One side argues there's no problem with it, the other says you run a risk of a fire should a traffic accident occur. We've seen no "hard" statistics on the matter, but we reason: If you did roll your RV, or get it clobbered hard enough to break a gas line, then you've statistically upped your chances of having LP where you don't want it. We generally won't move our RV with the LP valves open.
What about the refrigerator? If you start out on your journey with a cold refrigerator, even if the weather is hot, if you keep the door shut, you'll probably find that things stay cold enough without the "reefer" being fired up. Not withstanding, it's an encouragement to not stay on the road until you're bone-weary, stop earlier and enjoy the countryside.
In any case common sense and law does require you to SHUT the LP valves, and shut off any pilot lights and automatic LP ignition systems (refrigerator, furnace, and water heater) when refueling either with LP or motor fuel. And yes, we HAVE seen evidence that there are those foolish enough to skip this part of the procedure, and HAVE suffered the consequences--unfortunately they've involved others lives and property in the process.
Inside the Coach
Many authorities recommend an annual LP system inspection by a qualified repairman. In this, all fittings and lines are inspected for leakage, and regulators and appliances inspected for problems. Yes, a qualified do-it-yourselfer can do this, if skilled and properly equipped.
If you buy a used RV, this may be an excellent time to have a professional check out your system. Not too long ago, a gentleman discovered that the previous owner had, for some reason, disconnected the LP line from the RV refrigerator. Unfortunately, he found that out after he attempted to light a stove top burner and the entire rig blasted apart. Fortunately he was not killed in the process, but it did leave the local firemen something to talk about.
Still, there are plenty of things as RVers we can do to better secure our own safety. First, know what LP gas "smells" like. Since LP has no odor of its own, a garlic like odor is added to tanks so if a leak occurs, you'll hopefully recognize it. Most RVs are equipped with an LP detector that sounds off before LP concentrations can reach the danger point. If you smell LP or your detector alerts, GET OUT OF THE RV. Don't turn on light switches, don't "phone" from inside the rig, just GET OUT and close your tank valves. Get help to locate the problem.
DON'T try to heat your rig with the stove top or oven. More than one RVer has paid with his life for this idea.
Regularly check to make sure vented LP appliances really are. Some wasps seem to think an excellent place to build a nest is inside the furnace vent. An RVer had trouble with his furnace running, and thought to check the outside vent. About the time he got his face down to the vent, CABOOM, back pressure blew the nest out of the vent, and gave his adrenaline system a full-throttle check. Blockages in vents can allow carbon monoxide to build up in your rig, which can lead to your relatives checking out your estate sooner than you wanted.
If your LP appliances or the LP system itself needs repair, HIRE a professional unless you really know what you're doing.
We've met some folks who seem to be terrified of LP. Often it's because somewhere in the past they or someone they knew had a bad experience. But used with common sense and a little care, propane is an excellent servant for RVers.
[Update history: Added reader's comment regarding fill position for horizontal tanks. 12/08/2009]
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